a picturesque journey to St. Mary Island

It was evening when I reached Udupi. I had to travel to Manipal from there, where my host, Jotsna was living. She was an IIM alumni and working as a professor in top management school in Manipal. I took another bus for 30 minutes to Manipal. Jotsna, who came right after I arrived at the bus stop. She was very welcoming.  We drove to a small restaurant for tea and snacks. i was having pains in my right leg, but I neglected it. It could be because of long journey, I thought. 

She ordered me some local snacks and tea. I found her warmhearted. We were talking about my trip and suddenly we made a plan to watch a recent bollywood release "Bajirao Mastani". So This was my day, I traveled from Gokarna to Udupi almost whole day in a hot humid weather. I had pains in my leg, it was difficult to walk after sometime and I had to sit down and relax my leg, In evening, I met a girl whom I found as spontaneous as me and I ended up watching a movie with her in night. I slept around 1 am in the night after listening to her amazing travel stories and a cup of coffee. 

Next day, I got ready in hurry and took leave of Jotsna, who already have added one new flavor to my journey. And yes there were pains in my leg, still. And I was ignoring it, still. I reached to Malpe beach which was 45 minutes away from Jotsna's apartment by bus.  From where I had to take a ferry to the Island. Every passing minute in the ferry was making me more curious about the Island. I reached there after half an hour.  

I was trying to take as many pictures as I could, roaming on the Island. It was afternoon, and for me it was difficult to walk. When the pain was unbearable I thought of taking a break. There was a rock hardly 10 steps in the sea and the water lever was below my knee. I had checked it. I was carrying my backpack and a sling bag which ended at my waste level. I am describing the length og my backpack and sling bag because as soon as I entered in the sea, where the water was bellow my knee level, two steps in the sea and a big wave came to drench me head to toe. Yes, I was drenched with water along my two of my bags. 

I somehow reached on the rock emptied my backpack so that my cloths and other things could dry. 

This sling bag had all my money, wallets, camera, one iPhone and one other mobile phone. I dried the money. Camera was working. But my phones were dead. I waited to dry them fully. Tried to start them but everything was in vain. 

I sat on the rock, didnt know what to do. By the time I realized that the pain in my leg was not because of long journey but a muscle sprain and without mobile. I had to book my return ticket to Pune. And I knew one thing, without no mobile, journey back home was going to be different. 

Then without thinking much about these things I concentrated on enjoying the moments on the Island.
I met one amazing family, who felt sorry for my mobiles and clicked so many pictures of me to make it up. It was fun with them. 

View of Coconut Island from Ferry 

This is not sand, these are seashells...

A view of basaltic rock formation

picturesque view on St. Mary's Island

picturesque view 

A view of basaltic rock formation

this is where i dropped my bag in the sea ;)

A view of basaltic rock formation

A view of basaltic rock formation

This is how I See Gokarna...

When I reached Gokarna, it was 2 in afternoon. Gokarna is religious pilgrimage town in north Karnataka's coastal part. I was pleasantly surprised to see the market full of tourists especially foreigners. I was hungry and my search for restaurant didn't take long time as there were no many options available in the town. I entered in Raghavendra Restaurant which was at the corner of main road, next to the bus stop.

Without thinking much I ordered Masala Dosa as soon as I settled down on the table. Restaurant was full, mostly with tourists. I was busy watching different tourists sitting in the restaurant. This is my hobby. I love watching people, catching their expressions. I am a people watcher. I suddenly realized that my table was being shared by a lady. She was wearing a Punjabi Suit with silver ornaments. She had blue eyes and short height. She was in her sixties, that I could guess from her skin. I complimented on the nose ring she was wearing. She thanked me with her charming smile.

After formalities l understood that she was from USA, it was her sixth trip to India. Gokarna was her one of the favorite places in India. She keeps visiting Gokarna every year since her first visit and stays there for least few months.

But the fun started when she refused to accept that I was an Indian when I told her that I am a solo woman traveler from India. In a melodramatic tone she shouted at me, what? You're still single? Go get married, it's not good to travel alone for a women. We laughed at her spontaneous performance like anything. She sounded like a typical Indian Granny to me. She was interesting. I was happy she chose to sit on my table.

Returning to her original tone she took me in flashback with her. She started, I was backpacking in Europe when I met John. He was a nice guy with a passion for traveling. We traveled together, fell in love. Without knowing I realized that I was pregnant with his child. I was only 27 years old. I was knowing John since hardly three months. Thought I had traveled almost all Europe by that time, I had a desire to explore the World. No one was there to give a suggestion. My mom wanted me to abort the child, because she knew although John was in a process to get separated from his wife, he was still married. I was confused. 

Days were passing and I was just thinking, rethinking and over thinking. This continued for few more days until I was tired of thinking. One day I sat down and closed my eyes and a sudden thought popped up in my mind. We were using all kind of precautions, still I got pregnant. There must be a reason behind it. This must be a God's will that I should give a birth to this child. I decided to give birth to my child.

We came back to California. I simply told John,  I won't force you for anything. This child is my responsibility as well. But if you want, you could be as involved as you want. John chose to go back to his wife and give his marriage a second chance. I didn't stop him, you can't make a man to stay. This is not a thing a woman should do.

I rejoined my job. This was a difficult time in my life. But I was witnessing change, change in people around me, change in me as a person, I was improving as a human being. When I was in my seventh month of pregnancy, John came back in my life. He had got divorce from his wife. His second chance to his marriage didn't work. I welcomed him in my life.   

John was a nice boyfriend. He took care of me. I gave birth to my first child, I named him Ruth, Its a Hebrew name, meaning a friend. We were having happy times. When Ruth was a year old, John bought a caravan. we went on a road trip to North America. This was the best ever experience. Traveling and taking care of a one year old kid, Incredible. I was improving as a person, as a human being. I was becoming more responsible. I was liking this change in me.

We, me and John decided to have one more child,  friend to Ruth. I gave birth to my second child, Ethan. Ruth was 2 years old that time.  One day John came back from office and proposed me for marriage. I was taken aback by his sudden action. I said, No, I dont want to get into legal things. I am happy with you and kids. But John was insisting me. He told me that He was a only child to his parents, so he wanted our kids to have his name. After knowing this I was angry with him. Though I was living in the part of the world which is said to be developed but not mentally. We still have male dominating society. But after few days I agreed and said Yes for marriage. I was in love with him. 

We got married in our house. Our two kids, Ruth was 4, Ethan was 2, few mutual friends of John and me were present for our marriage ceremony. Our parents couldnt make it to our wedding.

We both were working. We were happy with our jobs. Our kids were growing, they were going in school. We were enjoying of parenthood. John and I were in love. I couldnt ask for more than this in my life. 

That was our 13th year of marriage. I found out that John was seeing someone else. He wanted a divorce from me. This was a shock but I handled the situation. I didnt fight with him. I didnt even ask him, why? Why are you leaving our happy world? If the situation comes where you are put in situation to ask Why? you should not ask. This is the best way to let the things go. Her name was also Karin.

We took a piece of paper, and divided the things equally between both of us. The things we bought together for our home. This was hard but its better to be practical sometime. Each of us got two weeks of custody for our kids. We were living in a same city so it was easy for kids and with their school. Our divorce went peacefully.

I never broke my friendship with John. Because I didnt want my kids to face any problem because of our divorce. Other Karin was good, I wont say she was my best friend or something. But she was not bad at all. She took care of my kids as their step mother very well. We are friends on Facebook and we often like each others posts and pictures. 

 After John, I  had few boyfriends. Couple of them wanted to marry me. But I was firm on my decision not to get married. I very humbly rejected their proposals saying that I have already done it once. I have my two sons to raise. I am happy with it. I dont want to start it all over again.

  

Now my Ruth is 36, ethan is 34. Ruth got married two years back. I couldnt attent his wedding, I was in China at the time. He has a year old sweet daughter, Sky. I am a grand mom now. Ethan lives with his girlfriend, half of the year in Alaska and half in California. Last year he was missing me so badly, he came to meet me in India with his girlfriend for two months. They loved their stay with me in India, Camel safari in Jaisalmer and Goa beaches.

Last year, we all meet at my niece's wedding. I saw Sky for the first time. Thought we dont meet regularly, we are in touch with each other through Skype. We have a strong connection and a emotional bond.   

We didnt realize how time passed. I listening to her life story for two hours. Her journey of life was going on. She was going through all kind of experiences. Happy, sad, shocking, surprising. some were against her will, some she wanted to happen. But she never left traveling. This is what impressed me a lot. I was influenced by this strong lady. She welcomed life as it came. She never complained for anything happened in her life. She never quit her passion, passion for traveling for anything. She kept learning from life. She kept traveling. she is still travelling. 

Kiril , After pooja in Rama Mandir 

Compassion has no language, no boundaries :) 

View of Gokarna Beach, from the hill which separates Kudle and Gokarna Beach.

View of Gokarna Beach, from the hill which separates Kudle and Gokarna Beach.

loved this gesture 

loved this gesture 

loved this gesture 

Traveling family...family who travels together stays together :)

He asked me for a reason, why I wanted his photo

You enjoy the sea, we are off to our daily wages work. 

That little one enjoying the game.

This is the place where I stayed. Nice people. I would love to visit it again.

A morning view from the restaurant, Kudle Beach

View of Gokarna Beach, from the hill which separates Kudle and Gokarna Beach.

I see myself in her :) walking towards no destination...just walking and living :)

गोकर्ण-अचानक भयानक – 2

२४.१२.२०१५

दुपारचे अडीच वाजले असतील मी गोकर्णला पोहोचले तेंव्हा. प्रचंड उकडत होतं तिथं. प्रवासही भरपूर झाला होता माझा. भूक लागली होती. किरील ला यायला अजून एक तास होता. तो येईपर्यंत मी जेवण करायचं ठरवलं. बस stop जवळच “राघवेंद्र” म्हणून एक छोटंसं restaurant होतं. मी आत जाऊन बसले. आत, local कन्नड लोकांबरोबरच काही विदेशी पर्यटकही जेवण करत होते. कर्नाटक मध्ये असल्यामुळे जास्त विचार न करता “मसाला डोसा” आणि चहा order केला.  बिल आलं ३० रुपये फक्त.

Restaurant पूर्ण भरलेलं होतं. माझ्या टेबल वर पंजाबी सूट घातलेली साठीतली एक विदेशी महिला येऊन बसली. उंचीला जास्तीत जास्त ५ फुट असेल. तिने चांदीचे दागिने घातलेले होते अंगावर. मला का कुणास ठाऊक पण छान वाटलं तिच्याकडं पाहून. मी तिला complement दिली कि नाकात घातलेली, रिंग छान दिसतेय. खरच छान दिसत होती तिला. तिने दही आणि बटाट्याची भाजी order केली.

थोड्याच वेळात ती माझ्याशी बोलायला लागली. तिला आधी वाटलं कि मी पण विदेशी पर्यटक आहे. माझा अवतार पाहून तिला असं वाटलच कसं असेल देव जाणे. मी तीचा गैरसमज दूर केला, तीला सांगितलं कि मी भारतीय आहे, पुण्याहून आलेय. आणि जेंव्हा तिला समजलं कि मी २९ वर्षांची, unmarried आणि solo traveler आहे, तिला आश्चर्याचा धक्काच बसला. आणि एकदम भारतीय म्हातारीने टोमणा मारावा असे expressions देत मला बोल्ली, “काय ?, एवढी मोठी झालीस, लग्न नाही केलंस अजून, आणि एकटीच फिरतेस...” तिचा तो spontaneous performance पाहून मला हसू आवरेना.

आणि मग मला समजलं, कि तिला मी भारतीय का वाटले नाही, कारण भारतीय मुली एकट्या travelling करतच नाहीत, असा समज म्हणा, गैरसमज म्हणा बाहेरच्या लोकांमध्ये आहे. किंबहुना तिचा गैरसमज इतका पक्का होता कि मी दिसायला १००% भारतीय असूनही, तीला मी विदेशी वाटले. 

आम्ही खूप हसलो आणि मग गप्पाच गप्पा सुरु झाल्या. माझ्याबद्दल सगळी विचारपूस केली तिने. मी तिला विचारलं , तू एकटीच आलीयेस गोकर्ण फिरायला? का कुणास ठाऊक पण तिने तिची सगळी story च सांगायला सुरुवात केली.

ती सांगू लागली, वयाच्या २७ व्या वर्षापर्यंत तिचा अख्खा पूर्ण युरोप फिरून झाला होता. युरोप फिरता फिरता तिला जॉन भेटला. त्यालाही भटकायची खूप आवड होती. दोघांची मस्त गट्टी जमली. प्रेमात पडले. आणि केरिन वयाच्या २७ व्या वर्षी pregnant राहिली. आणि अजून ती जॉनला व्यवस्थित ओळखत पण नव्हती. तीन महिन्यांची तर त्यांची ओळख. ती पण प्रवासातली. तिच्या आईच्या मते तिने जॉन च्या बाळाला जन्म नको होता द्यायला. केरिनने पण आधी तोच विचार केलेला. जॉन विवाहित होता आणि त्याचा पहिल्या लग्नात  काहीतरी problems होते आणि त्याची घटस्पोट घ्यायची process सुरु होती. पण तो अजूनही विवाहीतच होता. त्यामुळे केरिनला काय करावा समजत नव्हतं.

एकदा असंच तिच्या डोक्यात विचार आला, कि सगळे precautionary measures वापरत असूनही ती pregnant राहिली म्हणजे, हे देवाच्या मनात होतं. म्हणजे हे होणारच होता, हेच योग्य आहे. तिने बाळाला जन्म द्यायचं ठरवलं. आणि जॉनवर काही एक बंधन न टाकता किंवा जबाबदारी न देता त्याला त्याचा निर्णय घ्यायला सांगितलं. जॉनला त्याचा आधीच्या लग्नाला दुसरा chance द्यायचा होता. तो केरिनला सोडून त्याच्या बायकोकडे गेला. केरिनने पण त्याला अडवलं नाही. त्या दिवशी तिने बोल्लेलं एक वाक्य माझ्या जसाच्या तसं लक्षात आहे, “you cant make a man to stay, dear.” तुम्ही जाणाऱ्या माणसाला थांबवू शकत नाही. थांबवायलाही नको.

केरिन कॅलिफोर्नियाला आली. परत job सुरु केला. काही महिन्यांनी जॉन परत तिच्याकडे आला. त्याला घटस्पोट झाला होता एव्हाना. केरिनने तिच्या मोठ्या मुलाला जन्म दिला. तिने त्याचं नाव सेथ ठेवलं. हिब्रू भाषतला नाव आहे हे, तिने सांगितलं.  

सेथ एक वर्षाचा असताना जॉनने camper van घेतली आणि ते तिघं जण पूर्ण south अमेरिका फिरले. मी तिला मध्ये थांबवून विचारलंच, एक वर्षाच्या लेकराला घेऊन तुम्ही फिरले? ती “हो” बोल्ली फ़क़्त. आणि प्रवासातल्या गमतीजमती सांगायला लागली. काही दिवसांनी त्या दोघांनी विचार केला कि सेथला एखादा भाऊ किंवा बहिण हवा. सेथ दोन वर्षाचा असताना केरिनणे तिच्या दुसऱ्या मुलाला जन्म दिला. इथन नाव त्याचं.

केरिन आणि जॉनचं त्यांच्या दोन मुलांबरोबर बरोबर आयुष्य मजेत चाललं होतं. एक दिवस अचानक जॉन केरीनला बोल्ला कि आपण लग्न करूयात. तिने पहिल्यांदा स्पष्ट नकार दिला. तिला जे चाललंय ते मजेत आणि योग्य चाललंय असं वाटत होतं. ती खूप होती जॉन आणि दोन मुलांबरोबर. लग्न करायची तिला गरज वाटत नव्हती. पण मग जॉनने तिला सांगितलं कि, त्याच्या घरात तो एकटाच मुलगा आहे आणि त्याचं नाव पुढे चालवायसाठी त्याला त्याच्या मुलांना त्याचं नाव द्यायचं होतं. मग तर केरिन काही केल्या लग्नाला तयार होईना. केरिन बोल्ली, जास्त दिवस मला त्याला नाही म्हणता आलं नाही, “I was in love with him”. थोड्या दिवसात आम्ही लग्न केलं.  लग्नाला तिचे दोन मुलं आणि ४ common friends आणि ते दोघं. दोघांच्याही घरचे, आई वडील सुद्धा busy असल्यामुळे येऊ शकले नाहीत. घरातल्या घरातच लग्न झालं.

केरिन चा संसार निवांत चालला होता. १३ वर्ष झाली लग्नाला. मुलं मोठी झाली होती. शाळेत जात होती. job पण तिच्या मनासारखा होता. आणि जॉनच्या आयुष्यात अजून एक दुसरी केरिन आली. आपल्या केरिनने परत तोच पावित्रा होता, “you cant make a man to stay, dear.”

त्या दोघांनी divorce घ्यायचा ठरवला. ती मला सांगत होती, आम्ही एक कागद घेतला, त्यावर पेनने एक उभी रेषा आखली. एका बाजूला केरीनला हव्या असणाऱ्या गोष्टी आणि दुसऱ्या बाजूला जॉनला हव्या असणाऱ्या गोष्टी. अगदी न भांडता, तमाशा न करता दोघं वेगळे झाले. मुलांची custody २ आठवडे केरिन, २ आठवडे जॉन कडे अशी होती. दोघं एकाच शहरात राहत असल्यामुळे मुलांच्या शाळेचा वगेरे काही जास्त त्रास नाही झाला.

केरिनचा प्रवास सुरूच होता मुलांना घेऊन. जॉन नंतर तिच्या आयुष्यात २-३ boyfriends आले. ते हि चांगले होते. प्रवासाची आवड असणारे होते. तिला लग्नाची मागणी पण घातलेली एक दोघांनी, पण ती तिच्या निर्णयावर ठाम होती, तिचं उत्तर असं असायचं, मी हे सगळं करून चुकलेय. लग्न केलंय, दोन मुलं आहेत मला. मला त्यांना सांभाळायचय. मला परत या चक्रात अडकायचं नाहीये.

हे सगळं सुरु असताना जॉनबरोबरची मैत्री तिने कधी तोडली नाही. त्यामुळे पालकांच्या divorce मुळे इतर मुलांना जो त्रास सहन करावा लागतो तो केरिनच्या मुलांना सहन करावा लागला नाही. दुसऱ्या केरिन बद्दल तिचं मत अगदी स्पष्ट होतं, “तीला मी माझी मैत्रीण वगेरे म्हणणार नाही, याचा अर्थ ती वाईट आहे असं नाही. ती चांगली व्यक्ती आहे. जेंव्हा जेंव्हा माझी मुलं जॉन कडे राहायची, तेंव्हा माझ्या मुलांची spet mother म्हणून खूप चांगली वागलीये ती. आम्ही facebook friends  आहोत आणि अधून मधून एकमेकींच्या photos ला like करत असतो.” हसून सांगत होती ती.

आता तिचा सेथ ३६ वर्षांचा आणि इथन ३४ वर्षांचा आहे. २ वर्षांपूर्वी सेथने लग्न केलंय. लग्नाच्या आधी त्याने केरिनला call करून सांगितलं कि तो लग्न करत आहे. केरिन तेंव्हा चीन मध्ये  होती. लग्नाला ती जाऊ शकली नाही. तिला आता आठ महिन्यांची एक नात पण आहे, तिचा नाव Sky आहे. इथन त्याच्या girlfriend बरोबर अलास्काला सहा महिने आणि कॅलिफोर्नियाला सहा महिने असं राहतो. तो photographer आहे. मागच्या वर्षी त्याला आईची खूप आठवण आलेली तर, girlfriend घेऊन २ महिन्यांसाठी तिला भेटायला आलेला, केरिन तेंव्हा भारतातच होती. तिने सांगितलं कि त्या दोघांना जैसलमेर मधली camel सफारी आणि गोव्याचे beaches भलते आवडले. जॉन आणि दुसरी केरिन पण अमेरिकेतल्या कुठल्या तरी शहरात राहतात.

मध्यंतरी तिच्या भाचीच्या लग्नात हे सगळे लोकं भेटले. तेंव्हा केरिनने Sky ला पहिल्यांदा पाहिलं. Sky बद्दल बोलताना ती आपल्याकडच्या आज्जीसारखीच वाटायची.

ती सांगत होती, सगळे busy आहेत. आम्ही वारंवार भेटत पण नाही. पण सगळ्यांमध्ये emotional bond आहे. आठवण आली कि skype वर बोलणं होतं मग.

तिची story ऐकता ऐकता २ तास कधी निघून गेले समजलंच नाही. किरील पण पोहोचला होता बस stop पर्यंत. उशीर झालेला त्याला पोहोचायला. केरिन मला सोडवायला आली तिथपर्यंत. मला स्व:ताची काळजी घ्यायला सांगितली.  आणि गडबडीत तिचा contact number न घेताच मी किरील बरोबर निघून गेले.  

गोकर्ण-अचानक भयानक – १

पुणे ते म्हापसा रात्रीचा प्रवास होता म्हणायला, स्लीपर बस असल्यामुळं मी झोपूनच गेले. मडगाव पर्यंत जाणारी बस म्हापश्यालाच बंद पडली. सकाळचे ८ वाजलेले. दुसरी बस येणार होती मडगाव ला घेऊन जायला पण मला वाट पाहण्यात काही अर्थ नाही वाटला. रस्त्याच्या कडेला एक हॉटेल होतं. तिथ जाऊन मी फ्रेश झाले आणि पणजी साठी जाणारी गोवा स्टेट ट्रान्सपोर्ट ची बस पकडली. माझ्या मागे बाकीचे प्रवाशी पण त्या बस मध्ये चढले. त्यांनीही विचार केला असावा कि इथं “त्या दुसऱ्या” बस ची वाट बघत बसण्या पेक्षा १५-२० मिनिटात पणजीत पोहोचू.

मला हे माहित होता कि, गोकर्णला जायसाठी मला मडगाव मधूनच बस मिळणार होती. आणि तिथं जायला पणजीहून जावं लागतं हे हि माहित होतं. पणजीतून मडगाव साठी लगेच बस मिळाली. म्हापश्यातून ३५ रुपयात मी मडगाव ला पोहोचले. बस स्टॉप वर मी ब्रेकफास्ट केला. थोडा वेळात लगेचच मला अंकोला पर्यंत बस मिळाली. या पुढचा प्रवास मी या आधी कधीही केला नव्हता. बस कानाकोना पर्यंत भरलेली होती, नंतर रिकामी झाली. मागचा मोठा sit रिकामं पाहून मला control नाही झाला. backpack sit च्या खाली ठेवलं आणि sling bag चा belt हातात अडकवून मी चक्क पूर्ण बाकावर पाय पसरून झोपी गेले. मध्ये stops आले असतील बरेचसे, मला लोकांच्या चढण्या उतरण्याच्या आवाज यायचा, गोंगाट झाल्यासारखा वाटायचं. पण मी ठरवला होतं, जोपर्यंत मला हलवून कोणी उठ म्हणत नाही तोपर्यंत उठायचा नाही. शेवटी मला उठवलंच कोणीतरी, conductor होता तो, बोल्ला, madam, अंकोला आ गया. यहासे कुमटा के लिये बस मिल जायेगा. तो मला बस पर्यंत पोहोचवायला आला आणि दुसरया conductor ला सांगितला कि, madam को कुमटा मे उठा देना. बहुदा मी बस मध्ये झोपूनच राहील कि काय अशी त्याला शंका आली असावी.  

माझ्या डोक्यात सहज एक विचार आला. माझ्याबरोबर कोणी असता तर, मी दहा वेळा विचार केला असता कि शेवटच्या बाकावर जाऊन झोपू कि नको. कदाचित माझ्या डोक्यात तसा विचार आला पण नसता. मला झोपेची किती गरज आहे यापेक्षा माझ्याबरोबरची व्यक्तीला माझ्या अश्या वागण्यामुळे काय वाटेल हा विचार करण्यामध्येच माझा सगळा प्रवास संपला असता. पण ती झोप माझ्यासाठी खुप महत्वाची होती. त्यामुळे प्रत्येक वेळेस दुसऱ्याला काय वाटेल यापेक्षा आपल्याला काय हवय याकडेही लक्ष द्यायला हवं.

आणि दुसरी गोष्ट म्हणजे, माझ्यामध्ये एक वेगळाच self confidence असतो मी जेंव्हा एकटी प्रवास करते तेंव्हा. मला अजिबात भीती वाटत नाही कशाचीच. झोपेत मला कोणी काही करेल, माझी bag घेऊन पळून जाईल असं दूर दूर पर्यंत माझ्या डोक्यात आला नव्हतं तेंव्हा. कोणतीतरी extra positive energy संचारते माझ्यात. कधी कधी मला वाटत एका ठिकाणी राहून मी “ती” energy miss करतेय, म्हणूनच कि काय मी फिरत असते, शोधत तिला. आणि मला असच जगायचं, असच शिकायचं, अशीच अनुभूती घ्यायाचीये आयुष्याची, असच मोठा व्हायचय.

नेहमी प्रमाणे ह्या प्रवासात मला जितके drivers आणि conductors भेटले, मदत करणारे भेटले. आणि बस पण लगेच मिळत गेल्या. मी कुठही pre booking वगेरे केलेलं नव्हतं ह्या वेळेस. म्हटलं बघू काय होतं ते. थोडीशी risk थोडसं adventure आणि खुप सारा confidence.

कुमटा ला जाणारी बस सुरु झाली. ह्या वेळेस मला last sit काही भेटलं नाही. एक चाळीशीतील कोकणी महिला आणि तिची १३-१४ वर्षांची मुलगी माझ्या शेजारी बसल्या. त्यांनी दोघींनीही मस्त गजरे माळलेले होते केसात. आणि खूप चमकीचे कपडे घातलेले होते. थोडा वेळाने मी बस मध्ये नजर फिरवली तर सगळ्यांनी तितक्याच चमकीचे कपडे घातलेले होते. ते गजरे जरा वेगळ्याच प्रकारे गुंफलेले होते. मी तिला विचारण्याचाही प्रयत्न केला पण काही सफल नाही झाला. माझी भाषा तिला अजिबातच समजत नव्हती. आम्ही वेळोवेळी smiles exchange करत होतो.

इकडं तिकडं बघत, थोड झोपत, आणि गाणे ऐकत माझा प्रवास सुरु होता. डिसेंबर चा महिना सुरु होता पण कोकणात कशाचा हिवाळा अन काय. भयानक उकडत होतं. 

कुमटा तीथुन मला लगेच गोकर्ण साठी बस मिळाली.  मडगाव पासून गोकर्ण पर्यंत प्रवासाचे जास्तीत जास्त २५० रुपये लागले असतील मला.

किरील ला message करून अर्धा तास झाला होता पण त्याचा अजून काही reply नव्हता आला. किरील, रशियाचा होता  आणि भारतीय संस्कृतीने भारावून गेल्यामुळे गोकर्ण मध्ये राहत होता.. या आधी तो तिबेट मध्ये राहायचा. तिबेटीयन बौद्ध वांगमय रशियन भाषेत translate करायचं काम तो करत होता. आणि हिंदू अध्यात्माचा खूप अभ्यास केलेला होता त्याने. गोकर्ण मधला  दोन दिवसाचा मुक्काम मी त्याच्या घरीच करणार होते. 

गोकर्ण ला पोहोचले मी, अडीच वाजलेत दुपारचे. भूक लागलेली आहे. किरील चा पत्ता नाही. सरळ कुडळे beach वर जावं कि किरील च्या reply ची वाट पहावी विचारच करत होते तेवढ्यात त्याचा call आला. तो राम मंदिरात पूजेला बसला होता. त्यामुळे माझा message बघता आला नव्हता. यायला त्याला एक तास भर वेळ होता. जवळच एक छोटंसं restaurant होतं. मी म्हटलं जेवण करून घ्यावं. कर्नाटक मध्ये असल्यामूळं मी जास्त विचार न करता एक मसाला डोसा ऑर्डर केला.

खूप प्रवास झाला होता, जवळजवळ १८ तास आणि ६०० किमी. पुणे ते म्हापसा. म्हापसा ते पणजी. पणजी ते मडगाव. मडगाव ते अंकोला. अंकोला ते कुमटा. कुमटा ते गोकर्ण. पण मला वाटतच नव्हतं कि मी इतक्या लांब आलेय आणि इतक्या वेळापासून वेगवेगळ्या बसेस पकडून प्रवास करतेय.

एक विसरलेच, पुणे ते म्हापसा मला ११०० रुपये लागले sleeper coach बस चे, Christmas season मुळे तिकिटांची किंमत वाढली होती. नाहीतर पुणे ते गोवा साधारणतः ७००-८०० रुपये लागतात off season मध्ये. 

नवा छंद

तुझ्याशी बोलले तर मलाच मी कळाले असं  वाटतंय

चिकार  होत्या कविता आधी, आज गझलेत बुडाल्यासारखं वाटतंय 

स्वच्छंदी एक झोका  मी काल गात होते 

नियमात रेशमाच्या आज गुंफल्या सारखं  वाटतंय 

तू गीतकार  मोठा, माहित आहे 

पर्वा नाही कुणाची तुला, ते ही  माहित आहे 

पण आजकाल ना, दुर्लक्षित राहण्याचा नवा छंद लागल्यासारखं  वाटतंय

तुझ्याशी बोलले तर मलाच मी कळाले असं  वाटतंय

भर पावसात ...

तो खिडकीत ,ती अंगणात 

जून च्या महिन्यात भर पावसात 

तिची थेंबांची भाषा 

त्याचे भिजलेले इशारे 

तिने चोरलेल्या नजरा 

त्याला झोंबणारे वारे 

ती थेंबाशी खेळणारी 

ती वाऱ्याशी बोलणारी 

ती स्वतः शीच लाजणारी

ती मदहोश नाचणारी

त्याचे ओले शब्द, ओल्या ओळी

आणि भिजलेली ती ,

त्याच्या भिजलेल्या कवितेत

तो खिडकीत ,ती अंगणात

जून च्या महिन्यात भर पावसात

तुझं येणं म्हणजे ...

तुझं येणं म्हणजे रिमझिम कविता,

जाणं म्हणजे मुसळधार किस्सा होऊन जातो...

तू असताना तुझ्यात भिजणं वेगळं,

नसतानाही तुझं असणं अदुश्य पांघरुणासारखं अंगावर देतो. 

कितीही चुकवण्याचा प्रयत्न केला …. 

कुठूनही , कसंही उठण्याचा प्रयत्न केला... 

तरी स्पर्श मात्र होतो...

तू असताना तुझ्यात भिजणं वेगळं …

तू नसताना तुझं असणं म्हणजे सगळं ….

येताना भरभरून घेऊन येतो

जाताना सगळंच देऊन जातो

गेल्यावरही चारी ऋतुंचा हिस्सा बनून राहतो

तुझं येणं म्हणजे रिमझिम कविता

जाणं म्हणजे मुसळधार किस्सा होऊन जातो ...

Khublei Mawlynnong-thank you Mawlynnong...

Traveling to North East India was always my dream. So I picked Meghalaya for my solo trip. It was unplanned, spontaneous, budget trip with lots of surprises. I flew from Pune to Guwahati. And real journey started when I took Yellow Sumo to Shillong. 175 rps only. Which is most popular and cheapest way of traveling. Shillong was a little disappointing with a traffic. So I didn't stay there and continued my journey to Mawlynnong-Asia's Cleanest Village. It took me half an hour to search the sumo station. And I realized that no one amlost no one could understand hindi and english. Finaly I called up Henry, the guide from Mawlynnong whome I was in regular contact. He called up his friend who happened to be a sumo driver. I took me to the sumo station, which was crowdy with local people from Shillong, People from near villages who had come for bazaar, many travellers. The place was really not beautiful, but I was more busy in trying to understand the language, eating some local food, clicking pictures of paan sellers mostly they were women, and my favorite category of people who just sit on the corners smoking some local hukkas, carefree, enjoying, not worrying about tomorrows  and smile back to everyone which reminds me Dev Anand's popular song, fikr ko dhuwe me udata chala gaya..... I tried to talk to everyone I came across. (lost my memory card and all pictures taken on the way with it)

After spending two and half hours at the sumo station, our sumo left for Mawlynnong. The journey was beautiful itself. I couldn't keep my eyes off from the green khasi hills and valleys and the turns on the roads and the small hamlets hidden in the trees.

I met Henry the guide when I reached Mawlynnong. He organised a homstay for me.   Next day I took a round of the village. For me Mawlynnong is, beautiful colourful gardens and perfectly finished bamboo fences around bamboo houses which are built 2-3 feet above the ground,  small and clean streets, well mannered and confident kids, all time helpful khasi people. And I decided to stay there for all eight days and cover places nearby.

Next day morning I went to the church, I had seen the photo of it on one of the websites. I had spent almost whole morning in the sitting around and clicking as many pictures as I could. The site was beautiful. Then I went to tree house which had a view of whole village and was built by Henry.

"Living root bridge" best example of using available natural resources. I also admire the generation who had a vision of making their next generation's life easy. Because It must have taken many decades to grow roots to form a bridge. Salute. This bridge connects Riwai and Nowhet villages.

" Nowhet view point " was a quiet place with a nice view. I could imagine the view in rainy season when the river down in the valley and the falls on the hills across are running. I could sit there for days reading my favourite novels. I took a walk to these places. I went to this place for four times. And I had to pay the entry fees only once. The guy I used to call him "Hairstyle" said Madam, no fees for you when I went there for second time.

When I came back to Mawlynnong, Henry told me that a guy from Pune had come riding his bullet. I asked for his homestay address and went to meet him. His name was Mickin and was a Hotel Manager. He had left his previous job and before joining new job in Kuwait he was on his solo trip to North East of India. We decided to visit "Dawki" together next morning. We started at 7 am. Visited living root bridge and view point again, we headed towards Dawki. It was one hour journey through thick forest. We came across one awesome waterfall on the way. We stopped there, clicked pictures.

Dawki is a must visit place with a breathtaking river view. We took a boat ride through the crystal clear waters. We were amazed to see the view. We drove back and Mickin left for Cherapunji to continue his trip. It was a nice experience to meet a person from your city in other corner of the country and travel with him. Mickin made my Dawki trip memorable as I never have thought in my wildest dream that I would be riding on bullet in North East of India. Simple, humble and nice guy he was!

Earlier day when I was searching Mickin's homestay, I ran into a Check Republic solo girl traveler. Eliska. What a positive vibe shae had. We got along with each other so easily. We had decided to meet once I am back from Dawki, so I went to her homestay and  I saw four of them were sitting outside her place. Gunajit, Eliska's host from Guwahati who had come to Mawlynnong for a day trip, Alon from Israel who was here in India for two months and was about to travel more five months travelling in India. Koaster, Eliska's homestay owner. We had very discussion on different topics ranging from Bihar Elections to Modi and solo backpacking to women empowerment. It was interesting to interact with people with different culture and countries. We had tea together after the discussion.

Next day morning Elishka and Gunajit left for Cherapunji and Guwahati respectively. Alon and I went to Shnongpeden via Dawki. And the day started with taking Alon to the living root bridge and the view point. I was becoming a guide of Asia's Cleanest Village.

Alon was a free spirit, flexible and kind. Passionate traveler. He had this urge to know more and more about India. He used to ask me so many question and queries. He was curious about me as I was an Indian solo girl traveler.

The common thing between us was, we never wasted our time in waiting for vehicle. We  started walking towards main road. We walked almost 15 kms. We hitchhiked four vehicles in our journey.

Alon wanted to follow the trail on the hill, we were crossing to get to the river. I preferred going down to the river and relax for some time. And make myself believe that it was real place. "Shnongpden" the place I have thought only exist in romantic novel. But it's real and only 7kms away from Dawki. Magical view this village has. It is based on the slopes of khasi hills, clean and clear river like a mirror, and a lonely planet.

Where locals are fishing and one of them offered us a ride in fishing boat. We were mesmerized by seeing the reflection of hills on the water. The was so clear we could see the fishes and stones clearly.

Next day me and Alon walked through rivers and wandered in the forest with tribals.  We walked through forest for 3-4 hours to see beautiful winter waterfalls, bamboo bridges and living ladders interior inside the woods.

One of the best part of my trip was my homestay. Nangroi(best cook and best host ever), her kids, her sister in law and few neighbourhood friends and me would talk around the fire evey night after dinner. I learned more about Matriarchy and khasi language. I tried to know their views on rest part of India. We would take after dinner tea.

One of my travel buddy rightly said I had become a citizen of Mawlynnong and Nangroi's family member in my eight days stay. I was happy not making plans and take every moment of the trip as surprise.